I did my best to thoroughly describe the steps I took to bleed my new SS line. If you feel pictures are required for any of the steps, I'd be willing to oblige you. If you feel I made a mistake on any of the steps or feel I could improve my description please add to this thread.
Prior to installing a front SS brake line, I did alot of reading online on how to bleed brake lines. I decided to purchase a mityvac and Speed Bleeders. I bought my Speed Bleeder, part SB7100S, through
www.speedbleeder.com. It's my understanding that the mityvac vacuum pump helps draw fluid through an empty brake line (line completely full of air). The mityvac accomplished this task easily. However, I still had a mushy brake lever. I finally figured out that it is very important to keep the brake lever depressed before closing the bleed nipple.
The Speed Bleeder appears to have a love or hate reputation among the feedback I have read online. I personally love it. After finishing my first ever brake bleed, I can honestly say the Speed Bleeder takes the thought out of bleeding your brake lines. You simply squeeze the brake lever and add brake fluid to the reservoir. You don't have to fuss with repeatedly opening and closing a standard bleed nipple during the bleeding process while trying to keep the brake lever depressed and the reservoir full.
TIP: Install the Speed Bleeder with fluid in the lines. When removing the OEM bleed screw, you must attach a tube to the nipple to catch the small amount of fluid that will leak out.
NOTE: The brake lever will still feel somewhat soft until you close the bleed nipple.
Brake Bleeding process for installing SS line and Speed Bleeder (does NOT include SS line installation)
Tools and materials used:
#2 phillips screwdriver
8mm open/box combo wrench
10mm open/box combo wrench
mityvac vacuum pump
1 container DOT 4 brake fluid (12 fl oz)
lots of clean rags
1. Cover gas tank, upper fairing, front wheel fender, and tire rim w/ rags
2. Use #2 phillips screwdriver to open the front master cyclinder brake reservoir
3. Remove metal lid, plasitc lid, rubber diaphragm
4. Place 10mm box wrench on bleed screw
5. Attach mityvac tube to the bleed nipple
6. Pump mityvac for a couple pulls
7. Crack open bleed screw with a 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the 10mm box wrench
8. Slowly and gently pump the brake lever while keeping the pressure up on the mityvac as necessary until all the fluid is drained and air bubbles appear in the mityvac tube
REMOVE OEM brake line and INSTALL SS brake line
9. Pour fresh brake fluid into the reservoir
10. Pump mityvac for a couple pulls
11. Squeeze brake lever slowly. The vacuum from the mityvac will draw the new fluid into the brake lines. Keep the vacuum up while squeezing the brake lever.
12. Continue steps 9-11 until fluid is drawn through the mityvac tube
13. Squeeze the brake lever one last time and keep the brake lever pulled in until you close the bleed nipple.
14. Close the brake reservoir by replacing the diaphragm, plastic lid, metal lid, and screws.
15. Wrap a clean rag around the bleed screw and attached mityvac tube so that you can remove the tube without getting any fluid on your bike
16. Remove 10mm box wrench
17. Re-attach mityvac tube to nipple
18. Place another clean rag around the brake caliper to catch any fluid that may leak from the base of the bleed screw
19. Use the open end of your 10mm box wrench to remove the OEM bleed screw. A small amount of fluid will leak.
20. Remove the mityvac tube when the fluid appears to have stopped flowing. Use a clean rag when removing the mityvac tube.
21. Attach the Speed Bleeder using an 8mm open wrench until the screw seats into the opening. The Speed Bleeder will NOT screw to the point where all the threads are covered. With the Speed Bleeder seated, you will see about 2 to 3 threads above the opening.
22. Place 8mm box wrench on Speed Bleeder
23. Replace mityvac tube
24. Pump mityvac for a couple of pulls
25. Crack open Speed Bleeder with a 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the 8mm box wrench
26. Open the brake reservoir so that you can add fresh brake fluid
27. Firmly squeeze the brake lever. I found that to remove air in the lines, a firmer pull on the brake lever is required to force the air out. Be sure to carefully cover the area around the brake reservoir because the firm lever pull will cause the brake fluid to be spit back from the small opening in the bottom of the reservoir. It is very important that the small opening in the bottom of the reservoir always be covered with brake fluid. I have read that occasionally lightly tapping the brake caliper and brake line with a rubber mallet helps release any trapped air. I chose just to tap/shake the line with my hand.
28. Continue step 27 until clear fluid (no bubbles) is pulled through the nipple and into the mityvac tube.
29. Close Speed Bleeder. The brake lever should be firm.
30. Top off the brake fluid in the reservoir by filling to the line located a few millimeters from the top
31. Replace diaphragm, plastic lid, metal lid, and screws
32. Clean up your work area and test your brakes. By test I mean with the engine off and the bike in neutral roll your bike and then squeeze the brake lever. Finally, start your bike and go a few feet and test your brakes again.
33. Brake fluid is hazardous and should be taken to your local auto store to be recycled/disposed.
