Track Bike thoughts?

[JimT]

Wow Mark I posted my reply the same time as your last post!

Yeah I'm going to head up. Go over ACH on the way. I'll take my camera and try to get some shots for you guys.

See you up there.

[Beefmaster_Mark]

Sounds good Jim!  Great minds think alike!   

[rwalterk]

Sounds good Jim!  Great minds think alike!   

Nice! 

Mark, I'll grab the ramp tomorrow and we can meet up Wed or Thur.  The early morning pick up on Friday sounds good.  EZ-Up would be good.  I have a gas jug.

[Beefmaster_Mark]

Well I undid everything on the shifter side to relocate the washers, and I think I stripped the part of the frame where it bolts in a little bit.  Fortunately with the relocation of the washers, I can fit a small nut on the other sides of bolts as they protrude on the backside.    I'm such an idiot.

Fortunately most of the force on the pegs is downward, not sideways. 

[Beefmaster_Mark]

Anyone ever use a Heli-Coil to repair threads? 

http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-8-Thread-Repair-1-25/dp/B0002SREP4/

[JimT]

Anyone ever use a Heli-Coil to repair threads?

Yes they work great. The Heli-Coil will be stronger than the original threads.

[Beefmaster_Mark]

Thanks Jim.  Do you think I should be proactive and remove the rest of the original threads and Heli-Coil it, or try to put it all back together and see how it goes? 

I have seen these Time Cert things, I hear they are better because the insert is hardened steel, but the starter kit is like $150!!!  I think I'll try the Heli-Coil and see what happens.  Geez, I am a hamfister for sure ... and I thought I was being careful!

[JimT]

Just do the Heli-Coil. Make sure you have the correct drill bit size and that you drill as straight as possible.

Just be careful when you are running the tap in, use some lube on the tap.

[Beefmaster_Mark]

Well it's all back together for now.  It rode and shifted fine.  I did use some blue loctite on each of the mounting points, and put a nut behind the top one.  I think it should be OK for Friday at least.  I will try to Heli-Coil after this weekend/in the future sometime.  That nut will definitely keep it from completely disengaging even if there was a total failure of the remaining threads.  I took a picture of the thread situation, will post it up later.

What a head-slapping moment!  I've never stripped out an aluminum frame/case/whatever before, now I know how tight is "too tight."  Better the footpeg mounts than the engine case or cylinder head!

[rwalterk]

That sucks.  I'm always hesitant to spend $100 on a torque wrench, but maybe it's worth it.

[JimT]

One of the things I have noticed after working on all my bikes is what poor quality fasteners are used. For example, the brake caliper bolts on the Honda. The heads are starting to round off, but all I've ever used to take them off is a 6 point Craftsman socket.

I guess it is one way the factories cut costs.

[Beefmaster_Mark]

I have a Craftsman torque wrench that I bought specifically for the bike.  I have heard of other FZ6 / R6 owners stripping out threads by adhering to factory torque specs, particularly with frame sliders in the engine case/frame mounts.  I think I did actually torque those to factory specs, but I didn't use it on the peg mounts.  Perhaps I should have.  I basically just judged it by hand and overdid it I guess.   

I agree Jim, I have rounded off stuff on the bike too.  I also have a nice little Craftsman set I bought just for the bike.  Seriously, it's a vehicle - why cut corners on fasteners?  Make the plastics and seat out of recycled materials for all I care, but harden the critical stuff.  Sheesh!